TAMAN SARI

The sound of splash water, the beauty of its ancient architecture, and its wonderful view make Taman Sari becomes very enchanting. Its alleys and buildings make Taman Sari has many secrets to reveal.

An era after Giyanti Treaty, Pangeran Mangkubumi was build a palace as the central of Kasultanan Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat's goverment. Pangeran Mangkubumi later known as Sultan Hamengku Buwono I was building the palace in the center of imaginary line connecting Parangtritis Beach and Mount Merapi. The point that was being a reference for building the palace is an umbul (fountain). To respect his wives good turns because they helped Sultan in the war time, Sultan asked Demak Tegis, a Portuegese architect and Bupati Madiun, as the foreman, to build a palace in that fountain which is located 500 meters in the south of keraton. The palace which is surrounded by Segaran (artificial lake) with the fragrant scent of flowers which were planted in the artificial island surrounds it is called as Taman Sari (Water Castle) now.

"On this Gapura Panggung, Sultan usually watched the dance down there. The buildings in its side was the place for people to play their instruments and in the middle usually small stage which is used by the dancers to show their versed and elegant dance," the guide explains to YogYES as we enter Taman Sari. From Gapura Panggung, the guide brings YogYES to enter the area which was only Sultan and his family could enter, Taman Sari pools. The sound of splash water immediately greets us. The water limpidity blends nicely with the stout light-yellow walls. The pools is divided into three, Umbul Kawitan (pool for the prince and the princess), Umbul Pamuncar (pool for Sultan's mistress), and Umbul Panguras (Sultan's pool).

A stoneware which was used for Sultan wives to reflect themselves still intactly stands when YogYES enter the tower of Sultan's private room. Ornaments which used to beautify the stoneware give a glamour effect to all things that were placed beside the Sultan's wardrobe. Imagine, 200 years ago there was a woman was waiting water in the stoneware until its calm then she down her head, fixed her makeup and bun, beautify her body while reflecting herself in the water mirror. Besides the stoneware and Sultan's private room, in this three floored tower we can find wooden stairs which are still taken care and it will gave effect of antique for everyone who sees it. Up to the top, the reflection of the sunshine form the pool down there and all Taman Sari area will be clearly seen. Long time ago from this place, Perhaps Sultan also enjoyed this view, and Taman Sari view which was still complete with its artificial lake and the flowers fragrant.

After enjoying the view from the top of the tower, the guide brings yogYES into Gapura Agung, the arrival of Kereta Kencana which carried Sultan and his family. The gate which is dominated by flowers and bird's wings ornament is the entrance for Sultan and family to Taman Sari. Place for meditation which is right at the south of Taman Sari becomes the next destination. Before going to the war, Sultan would meditate in this place. Silent and quiet atmosphere instantly felt when YogYES enters. In this place, Sultan would think all the posibilities to negotiate with the enemies and war strategies to make sovereignty of Keraton Yogyakarta keep in order. This area is also to be a storage for the weapons, armors, and purgatory place for antique keris. Its yard usually used by the Sultan's solders to war practice.

YogYES parted with the guide in front of the Gapura Agung. But it does not mean that the journey will be enad because there are many places that must be visited, such as Sumur Gumuling and Kenongo Building. To reach those places, you should went through Tajug, wind way alley that was used to connect Taman Sari with Keraton and Pulo Kenongo. This wide underground alley is used as the place when Keraton in the critical condition. Many hidden places can be found in this place. Leaving Tajug, you can see traces of Pulo Kenongo which was formerly an artificial island that was planted by cananga flowers to give fragrant into Taman Sari. YogYES then goes to Sumur Gumuling, underground mosque as the place for Sultan and family to do their religious duty. This two-story building is designed to have a good acoustic side. So, when the imam led the prayer, her voice would be clearly hear from all over the length and breadth of the building. Now, it still can being felt. The people speech who are far away from us will feel like they are on our side. Moreover, we can go to the center of the mosque by pass through the dark alleys. Arriving in the square-shaped with 5 steps around it in the center of the mosque, the feeling of majesty instantly felt. When we look up, the blue sky will greet us. The sounds of bird that came from settlements in Taman Sari area will add the serene atmosphere.

The last destination is Kenongo Building. The building which was used for Sultan to dine with family is the highest building in Taman Sari. In this place you can watch the enchanting golden sunset. All Taman Sari complez also can be seen from the top of Gedung Kenongo such as, Soko Guru mosquee in the east Taman Sari and Tajug's ventilations. Satisfied by the freshness of water in Taman Sary, the sky will greet us. The beautiful and enchanting view is offered by Taman Sari. The Enchanting water pools blend with walls which was blended from European, Hinduism, Java and China styled become a value that makes Taman Sari unforgetable.

PRAMBANAN TEMPLE

Prambanan is the masterpiece of Hindu culture of the tenth century. The slim building soaring up to 47 meters makes its beautiful architecture incomparable.

Prambanan temple is extraordinarily beautiful building constructed in the tenth century during the reigns of two kings namely Rakai Pikatan and Rakai Balitung. Soaring up to 47 meters (5 meters higher than Borobudurtemple), the foundation of this temple has fulfilled the desire of the founder to show Hindu triumph in Java Island. This temple is located 17 kilometers from the city center, among an area that now functions as beautiful park.

There is a legend that Javanese people always tell about this temple. As the story tells, there was a man named Bandung Bondowoso who loved Roro Jonggrang. To refuse his love, Jonggrang asked Bondowoso to make her a temple with 1,000 statues only in one-night time. The request was nearly fulfilled when Jonggrang asked the villagers to pound rice and to set a fire in order to look like morning had broken. Feeling to be cheated, Bondowoso who only completed 999 statues cursed Jonggrang to be the thousandth statue.

Prambanan temple has three main temples in the primary yard, namely Vishnu, Brahma, and Shiva temples. Those three temples are symbols of Trimurti in Hindu belief. All of them face to the east. Each main temple has accompanying temple facing to the west, namely Nandini for Shiva, Angsa for Brahma, and Garuda for Vishnu. Besides, there are 2 flank temples, 4 kelir temples and 4 corner temples. In the second area, there are 224 temples.

Entering Shiva temple, the highest temple and is located in the middle, you will find four rooms. One main room contains Shiva statue, while the other three rooms contain the statues of Durga (Shiva's wife), Agastya (Shiva's teacher), and Ganesha (Shiva's son). Durga statue is said to be the statue of Roro Jonggrang in the above legend.

In Vishnu temple, to the north of Shiva temple, you will find only one room with Vishnu statue in it. In Brahma temple, to the south of Shiva temple, you find only room as well with Brahma statue in it.

                          

Quite attractive accompanying temple is Garuda temple that is located close to Vishnu temple. This temple keeps a story of half-bird human being named Garuda. Garuda is a mystical bird in Hindu mythology. The figure is of golden body, white face, red wings, with the beak and wings similar to eagle's. It is assumed that the figure is Hindu adaptation of Bennu (means 'rises' or 'shines') that is associated with the god of the Sun or Re in Old Egypt mythology or Phoenix in Old Greek mythology. Garuda succeeded in saving his mother from the curse of Aruna (Garuda's handicapped brother) by stealing Tirta Amerta (the sacred water of the gods).

Its ability to save her mother made many people admire it to the present time and it is used for various purposes. Indonesia uses the bird as the symbol of the country. Other country using the same symbol is Thailand, with the same reason but different form adaptation and appearance. In Thailand, Garuda is known asKrut or Pha Krut.

Prambanan also has panels of relief describing the story of Ramayana. Experts say that the relief is similar to the story of Ramayana that is told orally from generation to generation. Another interesting relief is Kalpataru tree that - in Hindu - the tree is considered tree of life, eternity and environment harmony. In Prambanan, relief of Kalpataru tree is described as flanking a lion. The presence of this tree makes experts consider that Javanese society in the ninth century had wisdom to manage its environment.

Just like Garuda, Kalpataru tree is also used for various purposes. In Indonesia, Kalpataru is used as the logo of Indonesian Environment Institution. Some intellectuals in Bali even develop "Tri Hita Karana" concept for environment conservation by seeing Kalpataru relief in this temple. This tree of life is also seen in the gunungan (the puppet used as an opening of traditional puppet show or wayang kulit). This proves that relief panels in Prambanan have been widely known throughout the world.

If you see the relief in detail, you will see many birds on them; they are real birds as we can see on the earth right now. Relief panels of such birds are so natural that biologists can identify their genus. One of them is the relief of the Yellow-Crest Parrot (Cacatua sulphurea) that cites unanswered question. The reason is that the bird only exists in Masakambing Island, an island in the middle of Java Sea. Then, did the bird exist in Yogyakarta? No body has succeeded in revealing the mystery.

You can discover many more things in Prambanan. You can see relief of Wiracarita Ramayana based on oral tradition. If you feel tired of enjoying the relief, you can take a rest in the beautiful garden in the complex.

KALIBIRU

Waiting for the sunset to come above the lines of pine trees, within the green mountains of Menoreh, while watching the lake from afar. The fresh air and tranquil place are the relief for stress.

The Menoreh Maountains had been very friendly at that particular afternoon; it greeted us with cool fresh air to refreshen us after going in an exhausting one-hour trip all the way from Jogja. Our feelings, which had been tired of being hurried up by the crowded city traffic, were instantly brought to tranquility. No motorcycles passing by, quiet roads, green shady yards in front of the local houses-all just tempted us to move here. The place threw our memories to our young days, to the home where our memories were kept safe.

We were in Kalibiru, a village in Menoreh, the mountains that bordered the West end of Yogyakarta. In these very mountains, 200 years ago, Prince Diponegoro and his troops once fought against the Dutch, before he eventually been deceived and exiled to Sulawesi, where he spent the rest of his days until he died there. Kalibiru is now a village known mostly for its ecotourism. This is, indeed, not the sort of thing that happens just the way it is; it took decades to recover its beauty-the land had once been dull due to deforestation. Presently, thanks to the locals' efforts in reforesting the village, Kalibiru tourism has mobilized the economy and indeed has become their livelihood. That's how it goes between the nature and manbeing-they take care of each other.

The perfect time to pay a visit to Kalibiru would be during the afternoon, when the sun shows more friendliness and put more melancholy to the surrounding atmosphere. Around the area, there is a pine tree growing just at the edge of a cliff. This is the exact spot from where we can freely enjoy the charming view of the mountains of Menoreh. So, don't feel reluctant to climb the provided hung stairs; sit on the wooden board installed there, inhale the fresh mountain air and exhale slowly while closing your eyes. Feel every second passing as you will feel that time passes so slowly. For a while, forget the city live, leave behind all thoughts about your piles of works, and just savor the view you've got in front of you.

From the wooden board, you can see the sun riding on clouds, heading to its home. The ray of lights reaches to the surface of the Earth that slowly turns to a shade of golden color; as if the sun is leaving golden traces with each step it takes. A tranquil lake is also visible from afar. The lake has been the mirror for the face of the sun, reflecting glimmering rays along the day. In Kalibiru, all troubles will disappear into the tranquility. As for us, it's time for us to go back home with peace as evening has finally come.

KALISUCI CAVE TUBING YOGYAKARTA

Wading across the river that cuts across the karst slope on a floating tube will serve special sensation. The real adventure will begin when the stream enters the dark cave, so prepare yourself for this unforgettable exotic adventure.

Gunungkidul Regency has been known as a barren and dry area since topographically almost all of its regions consist of range of hills that underlain by limestone, or something known as karst. During the dry season, the green view of plants will dramatically change into brown because they are withering. However, behind its barrens, Gunungkidul possesses millions of potential tourism objects that are rarely found in other places. One among them is the beautiful cave that lies beneath the earth with the stream flows in it.

Go along the river flowing through the cave in the bowels of the earth is one of the adventures offered in Kalisuci, Semanu, Gunungkidul. Known as cave tubing, this activity combines caving and body rafting activity. Based on the information that cave tubing is only held in Mexico, New Zealand, and Gunungkidul, YogYES curiously began the new exciting and challenging adventure. After life jacket, helmet, and all supporting cave tubing equipments had been perfectly set on the body, YogYES started to walk along the path between jati woods to reach the start of Kalisuci cave tubing.

The winding river flow could clearly be seen from the cliff; the blue water looked contrast with the brown land, the karst, and also the withering plants, so that they formed an awesome and harmonious natural picture. After everybody got on the tube, the river adventure started. The tube moved as the river flew. When the water was still, our hands should row the tube to make it move, but when we were in a rapid, the tube would move fast and twirl following the stream flow. In some spots consisting of rocks and extreme rapid that was hard to go through, Yogyakarta should have got out of the river and walked while carrying the tube.

The real adventure began when the stream entered the recesses of Kalisuci and Gelatik cave. The sunlight disappeared and the situation turned into something dark. The only light was from the headlamp. The stalactites seen on the cave's roof kept dropping water from their tip. Some of them were crystal. Three bats were hanging on the ceiling, some fish were swimming under our feet, and a big spider was on the stalagmite. The beauty of the cave and the coolness of the river in the silence made us reluctant to leave. Having an intimate experience with the coldness of the river flow beneath the earth with an extra wonderful and exotic view was a really unforgettable adventure.

Note: Kalisuci Cave Tubing will be closed when the rainfall intensity is high, so for the tourists who want to do cave tubing should contact the organizer that consists of the local people several days before to check the stream. 

CAVE TUBING GUA PINDUL YOGYAKARTA

Feel the sensation of an adventure in the river inside a cave using a lifebelt. While going through the dark valley in the cave with stalactite and stalagmite, you will also have a story about the journey of Joko Singlulung looking for his father.

Wading across a river using b is somethinoatg common, but if the river is located inside a cave, of course it will be an enjoyable yet challenging experience. Pindul is a cave that becomes part of the group of seven caves with underground river flowing inside. It is located in a village named Bejiharjo, Karangmojo and it offers the real sensation of adventure. For about 45 to 60 minutes, visitors will be invited to go along the river in the darkness of the bowels of the earth with 300 meters length using lifebelt. This is an activity combining body rafting and caving, and later called cave tubing.

No special preparation needed to do cave tubing in Pindul cave. We only need lifebelt, life vest, and headlamp, and those equipments have been provided by the organizer. The still water flow makes it save for everyone, not only adults but also children. The best time to do cave tubing is in the morning at about 9 or 10a.m since the water won't be too cold. Furthermore, if the weather is clear, at that time we may see the light from heaven which is actually the sunlight from above that goes through the big hole on the top of the cave.

While enjoying the smooth wipes on the cold water on our skin in the middle of the cave with less light, the guide told a story of the name Pindul. Based on the legend believed by the indigenous people and passed on orally from generation to the other, the name of Pindul cave and the other caves in Bejiharjo could not be separated from the story of Joko Singlulung's journey to find his father. After exploring the dense forests, mountains, and rivers, Joko Singlulung got into the caves in Bejiharjo. When he got into one of the cave, he bent the rock, so that the place was named Pindul as the short form of pipi gebendul in Javanese language.

Besides telling us about the legend of the name of Pindul cave, the guide also told us about some pretty ornament that we find in the activity, such as crystal, moonmilk, stalactites, and stalagmites. A huge pillar formed from the join process between the stalactite and stalagmite which were thousands years old will greet in front of us. On some parts of the top of the cave, we could see natural picture as formation of bats living there. Meanwhile, in the middle of the cave was a place resembles wide pool where visitors usually take a rest, swim, and jump from above. When YogYES was still enjoying the beautiful ornament while listening to the sound of the baths and the water, it turned out that the cave tubing was over since we had arrived at the end of the cave. We could also see Banyumoto barrage, which was build in the Dutch colonization era, with karst as the background.

GUNUNG MERAPI AND KALIURANG

Marking the northern limit of the Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta, symmetrical, smoke-plumed Gunung Merapi (Giving Fire) is an awesome 2914-metre presence in the centre of Java, visible from Yogyakarta, 25km away. This is Indonesia’s most volatile volcano, and some volcanologists consider it the most consistently active volcano on earth. Through the centuries its ability to annihilate has frequently been demonstrated – as recently as 2010 an entire mountain village was destroyed and more than 350 people were killed.

Nearly a kilometre up on Merapi’s southern slopes is the misty and ramshackle hill village of Kaliurang. Bemos here cost Rp10,000 from behind the Terban terminal on Jalan Simanjutak in Yogya. In Kaliurang, you can join a trekking group to reach high on the barren flanks of Merapi, a fairly arduous five-hour scramble, much of it through the humid jungle that beards Merapi’s lower slopes. During Merapi’s dormant months (usually March to Oct) it’s possible to climb all the way to the top, but at other times, when the volcano is active, you may have to settle for a distant view from the observation platform. All treks begin in the dark at 3am, when the lava, spilling over the top and tracing a searing path down the mountainside, can be seen most clearly. Bring warm clothes, a torch and sturdy boots (not sandals, which offer little protection against snakes).

 

YOGYAKARTA

Yogyakarta (pronounced “Jogjakarta” and often just shortened toYogya, or “Jogja”) ranks as one of the best-preserved and most attractive cities in Java, and is a major centre for the classical Javanese arts of batik, ballet, drama, music, poetry and puppet shows. It is also the perfect base from which to explore the temples of Borobudur and Prambanan, or take an early morning hike up Gunung Merapi. Tourists flock here, attracted not only by the city’s courtly splendour but also by the cuisine and shopping, and the various language and cultural courses on offer. As a result there are more tourist-oriented hotels in Yogya than anywhere else in Java and, unfortunately, a correspondingly high number of touts, pickpockets and con-artists.

Sultan Hamengkubuwono I (also known as Mangkubumi) established his court here in 1755, spending the next 37 years building the new capital, with the Kraton as the centrepiece and the court at Solo as the blueprint. In 1946, the capital of the newly declared Republic of Indonesia was moved to Yogya from Jakarta, and the Kraton became the unofficial headquarters for the republican movement. The royal household of Yogya continues to enjoy almost slavish devotion from its subjects and the current sultan, Hamengkubuwono X, remains an influential politician.

The layout of Yogya reflects its character: frenetic, modern and brash on the outside, but with a tranquil, ancient and traditional heart in the Kraton, the walled city. Set in a two-kilometre-wide strip of land between the rivers Kali Winongo and Kali Code, this is the focus of interest for most visitors. Kraton means “royal residence” and originally referred just to the Sultan’s Palace, but today it denotes the whole of the walled city (plus Jalan Malioboro), a town of some ten thousand people. The Kraton has changed little in two hundred years; both the palace, and the 5km of crenellated icing-sugar walls that surround it, date from the first sultan’s reign.

 

BATUR VOLCANO AND BATUR LAKE

The Batur area, the most popular and dramatic volcanic scenery in Bali, was formed thirty thousand years ago when a gigantic volcano erupted. The rim of this vast crater remains clearly visible and it is the views from here that are the main draw. Confusingly, the entire area is sometimes referred to as Kintamani, although this is the name of just one of many villages. The highest points on the rim are Gunung Abang (2153m) on the eastern side, the third highest mountain in Bali, and Gunung Penulisan (1745m) on the northwest corner, with Pura Puncak Penulisan on its summit. Rising from the floor of this huge crater is Gunung Batur (1717m), an active volcano with four craters of its own and Danau Batur lake nestled beside it. Many visitors come to the area to climb Gunung Batur, usually for the sunrise.

There’s an admission charge to the area. The ticket offices are just south of Penelokan on the road from Bangli and at the junction of the road from Ubud and the rim road.

BESAKIH

The major tourist draw in the east of Bali is undoubtedly the Besakih temple complex, situated on the slopes of Gunung Agung, the holiest and highest mountain on the island.

Besakih is the most venerated site on Bali for Balinese Hindus, who believe that the gods occasionally descend to reside in the temple, during which times worshippers don their finery and bring them elaborate offerings. The complex’s sheer scale is impressive, and on a clear day, with Agung towering dramatically behind, and with ceremonies in full swing, it’s beautiful. However, Besakih has also evolved the habit of separating foreign tourists from their money as quickly as possible, which can make for a frustrating experience.

The complex consists of more than twenty separate temples spread over a site stretching for more than 3km. The central temple is Pura Penataran Agung, the largest on the island, built on seven ascending terraces, and comprising more than fifty structures. Start by following the path just outside Pura Penataran Agung’s wall, and then wander at will: the meru (multi-tiered shrine roofs) of Pura Batu Madeg, rising among the trees to the north, are enticing. Pura Pengubengan, the most far-flung of the temples, is a couple of kilometres through the forest.

Unless you’re praying or making offerings, you’re forbidden to enter the temples, and most remain locked unless there’s a ceremony going on. However, a lot is visible through the gateways and over walls. The rule about wearing a sarong and sash appears to be inconsistently applied but you’ll definitely need them if you’re in skimpy clothing; sarong and sash rental are available, with negotiable prices, but it’s much easier to take your own.

There are huge numbers of local guides at Besakih hoping to be engaged by visitors, but you don’t need one to explore the complex; stick to the paths running along the walls outside the temples, wear a sarong and sash, and you’ll be in no danger of causing religious offence. If you do hire a guide, you should use one who has an official guide badge and is wearing an endek shirt as uniform, and always establish the fee beforehand. If you’re escorted into one of the temples to receive a blessing from a priest you’ll be expected to make a “donation” to the priest.

PURA TANAH LOT

Dramatically marooned on a craggy, wave-lashed rock just off the coast about 30km northwest of Kuta, Pura Tanah Lot is Bali’s most photographed sight. Framed by frothing white surf and glistening black sand, its elegant multi-tiered shrines have become the unofficial symbol of Bali and they attract huge crowds of visitors every day, particularly around sunset. Unfortunately this has brought all the joys of tourism with it, and now the temple sits against a background of stalls and over-enthusiastic hawkers. The temple is said to have been founded in the sixteenth century by the wandering Hindu priest Nirartha and is one of the most holy places on Bali. Only bona fide devotees are allowed to climb the stairway carved out of the rock face and enter the compounds; everyone else is confined to the base of the rock.

UBUD AND AROUND

Ubud is Bali’s cultural hub, a seductive town set amid terraced rice paddies and known for its talented classical dancers and musicians, and for its prolific painters and craftspeople. Tradition is particularly important here and temple festivals happen almost daily. However, although it’s fashionable to characterize Ubud as the real Bali, especially in contrast with Kuta, it’s a major tourist destination and bears little resemblance to a typical Balinese town.

Arty, high-minded Ubud has the best art museums and commercial galleries on the island and is also a recognized centre for spiritual tourism, with many opportunities to try out indigenous and imported healing therapies. Organic cafés, riverside bungalows and craft shops crowd its central marketplace, while the surrounding countryside is ideal for walks and cycle rides, and there’s easy access to the northern volcanoes.

There is major (mostly tasteful) development along the central Jalan Monkey Forest, and Ubud’s peripheries now encompass the neighbouring hamlets of Campuhan, Sanggingan, Penestanan, Nyuhkuning, Peliatan, Pengosekan and Padang Tegal.

CANDI DASA

At the eastern end of Amuk Bay is Candi dasa, a relaxed resort that appeals mostly to older visitors, with a wide choice of accommodation and restaurants. A good centre for snorkelling, diving and exploring the east, it makes a nice change from some of the more frenetic resorts in the south of the island. The main beach has suffered serious erosion in recent decades due to over-construction in the area – the offshore coral reefs were harvested to provide lime for building tourist resorts in the 1980s – but there are several small pockets of white sand along the waterfront where hotels have created artificial beaches.

The pretty lagoon in the centre of Candi Dasa, just across the main road from the temple, is a useful landmark. Most of the accommodation in Candi Dasa is spread about 1km along the main road running just behind the beach both east and west of the lagoon. East of this central section is which Forest Road has some quiet guesthouses.

The group of tiny islands lying just off the coast (Gili Tepekong, Gili Biaha and Gili Mimpang) offer excellent sites for experienced divers (currents can be strong), including walls, a pinnacle and the dramatic Tepekong Canyon. All the operators also arrange trips further afield to Padang Bai, Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan, Amed, Tulamben and Gili Selang.

For fantastic views over the coastline, follow the headland trail that forks off the road leading east in the direction of Amlapura. Beyond the headland there are some pretty beaches, with wide stretches of sand.

The reef along the coast is gradually rejuvenating and there is some decent snorkelling just offshore, stretching for about 1km westwards from the area in front of Puri Bagus Candidasa hotel. Take care not to venture too far out and be aware of your position as the currents can be hazardous. You can also go on snorkelling trips to more distant spots with local boat-owners, and dive operators also take snorkellers along on dive trips; always be clear whether or not equipment is included in the price.

AMED, JEMELUK AND THE FAR EAST COAST

The stretch of coast in the far east of Bali from Culik to Aas is known as Amed although this is just one village here. Accommodation is mushrooming along the 11km stretch from Amed to Aas, as people come here to enjoy the peace and quiet, the clifftop views of the glorious coastline and black beaches, and to take in the stunning underwater attractions.

Access to Amed is from the small junction village of Culik just over 9km north of Tirtagangga on the Amlapura–Singaraja road. In Amed, 3km away, life centres on fishing and salt production, which you can see at close quarters. A kilometre east is the hamlet of Congkang, then Jemeluk, 6km from Culik, which attracts divers and snorkellers for the offshore coral terrace leading to a wall dropping to a depth of more than 40m. There’s a high density of fish, with sharks, wrasses and parrotfish in the outer parts. From Jemeluk lies headland after headland: the beaches and villages of Bunutan and Lipah Beach are the most developed areas, though they remain low-key, leading on to Lehan Beach, Selang, Ibus, Banyuning and eventually Aas, almost 15km from Culik.

As well as at Jemeluk, there’s excellent diving at a wreck at Lipah Beach and a drift dive at Bunutan, with the chance to see schools of barracuda and giant barrel sponges. Advanced divers can explore Gili Selang, the eastern tip of Bali, where a pristine reef, pelagics and exciting currents are the draw. Good snorkelling spots include Jemeluk, the wreck at Lipah Beach and a Japanese wreck near the coast at Banyuning.

NUSA LEMBONGAN

Southeast across the Badung Strait, encircled by a mixture of white-sand beaches and mangrove, the tiny island of Nusa lembongan (4km by 3km) is an ideal escape from the bustle of the south. Seaweed farming is the major occupation here, supplemented by tourist income from surfers, snorkellers, divers and anyone seeking attractive beaches, a bit of gentle exploring and an addictive somnolent atmosphere.

Ranged along the west coast for over 1km, the low-key beachside village of Jungutbatu has plenty of losmen and restaurants. Coconut Beach, Chelegimbai and Mushroom Bay (Tanjung Sanghyang) to the southwest and Dream Beach on the south coast offer more upmarket accommodation, and Mushroom Bay is the destination for day-trippers from the mainland. This can disturb the peace in the middle of the day but does little to detract from the idyllic white sand and turquoise waters.

You can walk around the island in three to four hours. Motorbikes and bicycles are widely available for rent in Jungutbatu, though you will have to dismount and push your bike up some of the very steep hills.

Three surf breaks, aptly named Shipwrecks, Lacerations and Playground, are all reached from Jungutbatu. You can paddle out to Shipwrecks from the northern end of the beach, and to the other two from Coconut Beach around the cliffs to the south of Jungutbatu, but if you are staying further away you can charter a boat. There are several sites for snorkelling accessible by rented boat around the island. Further away, the Penida Wall and Crystal Bay, close to the neighbouring island of Nusa Penida, are also popular. World Diving also take snorkellers, if there’s room on the boat and the site is suitable. The area around the islands is popular for diving, although the sea can be cold with treacherous currents so it is important to dive with operators familiar with the area. Manta Point off the south coast of Nusa Penida is renowned for mola mola – although sadly during high season this generally means you can’t see any that do turn up, due to the huge crowds of divers surrounding them.

SANUR

Nicknamed “Snore” because it lacks the clubs and all-night party venues of Kuta, Sanur is a sedate resort popular with older visitors, and has a distinct village atmosphere, a fairly decent, five-kilometre-long sandy beach, and plenty of attractive budget accommodation. It’s also a major centre for diving and the main departure point for boats to Nusa Lembongan, plus it’s only 15km to Kuta and forty minutes’ drive to Ubud.

Though the sea here is only properly swimmable at high tide (a big expanse of shore gets exposed at low tide, and the currents beyond the reef are dangerously strong), there are lots of inviting restaurants along the beach and you can walk or cycle the entire 5km from the Inna Grand Bali Beach in the north to Hotel Sanur Beach in the south along a seafront esplanade.

KUTA, LEGIAN AND SEMINYAK

Crammed with hotels, restaurants, bars, clubs, tour agencies and shops, the Kuta–Legian–Seminyak conurbation, 10km southwest of Denpasar, is Bali’s biggest, brashest beach resort. The beach itself is one of the finest on the island, its gentle curve of golden sand stretching for 8km, and lashed by huge breakers that bring experienced and novice surfers flocking. Be wary, however, of the strong undertow and always swim between the red- and yellow-striped flags. Everyone else comes to shop and to party, fuelled by a pumping nightlife that ranges from the trashy in Kuta to the chic in Seminyak and Petitenget, though drugs, prostitution and gigolos (known locally as Kuta cowboys or mosquitoes because they jump from woman to woman) feature all over. Although the resort’s party atmosphere was shattered in 2002, when Islamic extremists from Java bombed Kuta’s two most popular clubs, and again when Kuta Square was attacked in 2005, the good-time vibe has resurfaced. A Monument of Human Tragedy now occupies the 2002 “Ground Zero” site.

Accommodation, shopping and restaurant options broadly fit the same geographical pattern, with Kuta the destination of party-going travellers, Legian the choice for families and couples, and Seminyak favoured by those with style and/or money. Kuta stretches north from the Matahari department store in Kuta Square to Jalan Melasti, while its southern fringes, extending south from Matahari to the airport, are defined as Tuban. Legian runs from Jalan Melasti as far as Jalan Double Six (Jalan Pantai Arjuna); Seminyak goes from Jalan Double Six up to the Oberoi Hotel, where Petitenget begins.

Places To Visit In Bali

With its pounding surf, emerald-green rice terraces and exceptionally artistic culture, the small volcanic island of Bali – population 3.1 million and the only Hindu society in Southeast Asia – has long been Indonesia’s premier tourist destination. Although it suffers the predictable problems of congestion and commercialization, Bali’s original charm is still much in evidence, its distinctive temples and elaborate festivals set off by the mountainous, river-rich landscape of the interior.

Bali’s most famous and crowded resort is Kuta, an eight-kilometre sweep of golden sand, with plenty of accommodation and the best shopping and nightlife on the island. Surfing is fun here too, but experienced wave-riders head for the surfing beaches on the Bukit peninsula and along Bali’s southwest coast. Sanur is a fairly sedate southern beach resort, but most backpackers prefer the tranquil island of Nusa Lembongan, the beaches of peaceful east-coast Amed, Candi Dasa and Padang Bai. Immensely rich sea life means that snorkelling and diving are big draws at all these resorts. Dolphin-watching is the main attraction in Lovina on the north coast, while Bali’s major cultural destination is Ubud, where traditional dances are staged every night and the streets are full of organic cafés and arts-and-crafts galleries. In addition, there are numerous elegant Hindu temples to visit, particularly at Tanah Lot and Besakih, and a good number of volcano hikes, the most popular being the route up Gunung Batur, with Gunung Agung only for the very fit.

Transport to and from Bali is efficient: the island is served by scores of international and domestic flights, which all land at Ngurah Rai Airport just south of Kuta, as well as round-the-clock ferries from Java, west across the Bali Strait from Gilimanuk, and from Lombok, east of Padang Bai. Pelni ferries from ports across Indonesia call at Benoa harbour.

• Brief History

Bali was a more or less independent society of Buddhists and Hindus until the fourteenth century, when it was colonized by the strictly Hindu Majapahits from neighbouring Java. Despite the subsequent Islamicization of nearly all her neighbours, Bali has remained firmly Hindu ever since. In 1849, the Dutch started to take an interest in Bali, and by January 1909 had wrested control of the whole island. Following a short-lived Japanese occupation in World War II, and Indonesia’s subsequent declaration of independence in 1945, Bali became an autonomous state within the Republic in 1949. But tensions with Java are ongoing and there is concern about wealthy entrepreneurs from Jakarta (and the West) monopolizing the financial benefits from Bali’s considerable attractions, with the Balinese fearing they may lose control of their own homeland. These tensions were horrifically highlighted when Muslim extremists from Java bombed Kuta’s two most popular nightclubs on October 12, 2002, killing more than two hundred people and sending Bali’s tourist-dependent economy into severe decline. A second attack, in October 2005, came just as the island was starting to recover. Reprisals and religious conflict have not ensued, however, due in part to Bali’s impressively equanimous Hindu leadership; by mid-2008, tourist numbers were healthier than ever, though it will take a lot longer to redress the hardships caused by the bombings.